This is the passenger-side door with the panel removed. I will eventually remove the plastic covering and Dynamat the you-know-what out of it. (See below) Dynamat reduces or eliminates (depending on how much you use and how well you install it) vibrations and resonances caused by your speakers. It should eliminate any unwanted colorations of your music caused by the speakers vibrating your metal door and all those metal parts inside the door (doors make lousy speaker enclosures). In the real world, by properly installing Dynamat, you can double or triple your dollar investment in your speakers just by soundproofing your door. The plastic has been removed. I used a heavy-duty cleaner to get off the tar left over from the plastic (the tar is used to attach the plastic to the door panel) and other dirt and grime in general. Clean every inch because your damping material will not adhere to a dirty or greasy surface. You can see through this access hole that I've begun to add some high-temp mastic sheets. They're asphalt-based and otherwise identical to Dynamat, except for the price of course! Expect to get your hands a little scraped up. I applied a sheet everywhere I could feasibly fit my arms and hands. I used a small roller to press the sheets onto the metal. After I finished the inside of the door with the sheets, I covered everything that was important with aluminum foil. Here you can see one of the window tracks covered up. Also cover up any mechanisms, electrical connections, etc. More aluminum foil. This time I've shoved a bunch of it between the top of the door panel and the bottom of the window. Do this from the inside of the door cavity. I've used some plastic lawn & garbage bags to cover up the window and inside of the car from getting any overspray on it. Overspray from what? See next photo. I've coated the entire inside of the door cavity with a sprayable visco-elastic vibration damper. It has to dry overnight. If you've done a good job with the aluminum foil it won't get anywhere you don't want it to be. It basically turns into a rubber-like substance that does a really good job of supressing any vibrations in the door that your speakers usually cause. Use some eye protection during this step! Here I've covered pretty much every part of the door panel except the access holes. I do this in case I need to get into the inside of the door cavity. This way, I can just remove the sheet over the hole rather than the entire sheet attached to the door. You really need a high-temp heat gun (not a hair dryer) for this step. It makes the sheets very pliable and lets them conform to the contours of the door. It also gets the adhesive side of the sheets very sticky. This is a very time-consuming step. Here is the finished product. I used smaller, overlapping sheets to cover all remaining holes. I couldn't get the door handle/lock linkages covered very well due to their design. I used clear silicone around most of the edges and corners of the sheets to prevent them from peeling away over time. I also used the silicone on every bolt, screw, etc. to keep them from rattling. This is about as sealed as a door can get. The styrofoam "thing" in the circle needs to be removed in order for the door panel to fit now that the access hole has been covered over. The whole damping process took about 8 hours (per door). You need to stop at some point and let it sit overnight before you can finish, though. Which reminds me, you need to have a place where you can park your car with the doors open or the windows down for a few days. All those chemicals smell pretty bad. This is the driver-side paneling behind the seatbelt cover, which I removed. The blue wire (yellow arrows) runs from the amplifier to the speakers in the rear doors. The doors have rubber boots which the stock wiring runs through from the inside of the car to the rear doors. These were fairly easy to run the speaker wire into and in the doors. I just used a long screw-driver to snake through the boots and then taped the speaker wire on the protruding end and pulled it back through.This is a picture of the passenger side door. The door is on the right and the car is on the left. The red arrows point to the stock wiring harness that comes from the car and goes into the door. Unfortunately, the connector (upper red arrow) is a multi-pin connector and cannot be tapped into at all for the purposes of running your own speaker wires into the door. I drilled holes into the car (deep behind the kick panels) and into the door and ran my speaker wire through them (yellow arrow). Why did Nissan have to make such a difficult job out of what should have been so easy? This is where the center console used to be. The box in the bottom of the picture is the "brain" for the side-impact air bags. No seats, no center console, no door panels. This whole process is not for the timid. Just take your time and remember how everything goes back together!A close-up of where the center console once was. My dash, disassembled. Believe it or not, this part was extremely easy and straight forward. A Phoenix Gold ZX500 2-channel amp (left) and ZX475ti 4-channel (right) mounted where the front seats usually are. This was the most difficult part of the install: getting the wiring to their respective paths and then up through the carpeting to the amps. Then mounting the amps and then grounding the amps and then... Many cuss words were shouted during this part. I was actually surprised that both amps fit under the seats. Most electric seats (and especially heated, like mine) don't have any room at all under them for amps, CD changers, etc. A close-up of the ZX475ti. In the lower-left corner, by the seat mount, you can see where I grounded it at. Always use as short-as-possible ground wire and make sure it's as big as or larger than the power wire. Also, keep these power wires seperate from your RCA cables as much as possible. If they do have to cross paths, they should do so at right angles to each-other. This will help, if not eliminate, any noise from getting into your system (e.g. alternator or spark plug whine).This is where I grinded away the paint underneath the seat mounts. I later went ahead and ground away all the paint from that surface (I only did half for illustrative purposes). This helps get a better ground for my amplifiers...once again helping reduce system noise.