See Page 9 for details on replacing the MSSS Head Unit This is a picture of the Pioneer FH-P4000 head unit I put in to replace the MSSS (made by Pioneer). The original silver-faced stereo lacked any real power and the cd player skipped like a schoolgirl. A lot of people are big fans of the MSSS, but I couldn't wait to replace it. My main goal, however, was to find something that visually and functionally matched the original stereo, and I think I accomplished that. The head unit is still Pioneer, it still has cd and cassette, and it still has a silver face. Once the new unit was hooked up, I was shocked at how good the factory Pioneer speakers are when you have enough power going to them. I used a Dynamat Extreme speaker kit in the doors and it took care of the rattles I was experiencing. To simplify the installation I used the Metra wiring harness for the Miata and a generic Metra mounting kit, altering it slightly with a dremel tool. Overall, I'm incredibly happy with my stereo system and this is one of my favorite mods to date.AmplifierI later installed an amp in an attempt to squeeze all I can out of the stock Pioneer component speakers. I bought a used Pioneer GM-X332 on eBay for $30. It's a 2 channel amp rated at 35 watts RMS per channel, and looks pretty dang sharp, especially for $30. Installing the amp also let me hook up the bass shakers to the head unit, so everything is functioning again, though I admit I never missed them much anyways.I decided the recessed area of the trunk was the best place to put the amp, although the previous owner had installed a cheap amp behind the passenger's seat. I pulled that one out as soon as I bought the car, mainly because it was junk, and I wanted to recover the seat travel lost by having an amp in that location. But when I pulled the amp, I left all of the wiring in place for later use. Though the PO had installed a cheap amp, he used a 10 ga Phoenix Gold install kit with some pretty expensive RCAs, which ended up being long enough to continue running back to the trunk. This made the installation pretty easy. I just had to run the speaker wires and relocate the power and ground cables. Here you can see where I've got most of the wire going. The RCAs are blue as is the turn on lead, and the red power cable is just under the edge of the carpet. There was a spot in the rear deck large enough to route the RCAs through so they entered the trunk through the tunnel. There was also a very small hole near the center of the rear deck just large enough to route my 18 ga speaker wire through. The speaker wires were fished under the carpet directly up the center of the car, while the RCAs were left in the original location along the passenger's side.Below you can see pics before and after I routed the wiring under the carpet. I just cut a couple of slits and pulled the wiring through to get a cleaner install. I also used a couple of strips of velcro on the back of the amp to hold it in place. Nothing fancy. And here's a pic of the cover I made to go over the amp. I went to Home Depot and bought a 2'x4' piece of 1/4" hardboard for about $2.50. I wasn't sure what I was going to use for legs, and almost just bought a dowel to measure and cut up, but I was thinking there had to be something better. I ended up with some 1/4"x3" machine screws and some nuts to go with for about another $2.50. I made a quick measurement of the recessed area and sketched it out on the board, using some cardboard to help me get the corner curve correct. I then cut out my piece of hardboard and smoothed off the edges with my sander. It was very easy to cut and sand. Next I decided where I wanted the legs to go and drilled four 1/4" holes and countersunk them for the flat head screws. I dropped those screws through with a washer and nut on the backside to keep them in place and ended up with a cut to fit cover with metal legs. I also added some black rubber caps on the end of the screws just to ensure I never accidentally scratch anything removing the cover from the trunk. I then used some leftover carpet I had from when I replaced the heel pad on my mat, and busted out the spray adhesive. Cover finished!Because of my fire extinguisher, that cover doesn't go over the entire recessed area. As such, it just slides in under the corner of the spare without any problems, but if you had the added width to cover the entire area, you'd probably have to make a small cut out to help it go under the corner of the spare. Antenna Here's the hideaway amplified antenna I installed, locating it just behind the glove box. I had previously disconnected my power antenna because it would annoyingly go up every time I turned the stereo on. I rarely use the radio, so I didn't miss it too much, but I decided to install one of these while I had my dash apart for the amp installation. It has a 12 volt line you tap into your wiring for the amplification, then just mount the antenna out of the way with the self-adhesive back. It's made by Metra in case you want to track one down. I bought it at my local Fry's Electronics.SpeakersI wanted to replace the components in my car, but desperately wanted to keep the stock tweeter grilles. There have been several posts in the forums about people wanting to do this, but everyone seems to give up and just use the aftermarket tweeter grilles. I didn't really consider this to be an option for me. My LE has those cool silver speaker pods around the main speaker, so I wanted the stock silver mounting ring around the grille on the tweeter.I did some research and found a tweeter from MB Quart that I thought would fit. It's the PQM 13 HX. It's available in a tweeter and inline crossover kit, or in the DSC 216 component set, which is what I opted for. The tweeter is very close in size to the original, and it's almost entirely flat. It also had a tension mount that screws directly into the back of the tweeter that I thought would work well when securing the new tweeter to the door panel. I just needed to figure out how to either attach the stock grille to the door panel, or attach the new tweeter to the stock grille. I took the second option. Below you can see pics of the back of the stock tweeter and grille once you've unscrewed them from each other. After I unscrewed them I found that my new tweeters were very close in size, but they were too small to just be able to wedge into the stock grille. I then took the plunge and decided to super glue the new tweeter to the stock grille. In order to do this, I wanted to start with a smooth surface. There are a few black raised tabs on the backside of the tweeter grille that I ground down with my Dremel. This gave me a level surface for the new tweeter to mount on and allowed a slightly shallower fit than you could have if you didn't grind off the useless tabs. I then used a couple of dabs of Super Glue Gel and checked the fit in the door panel. I decided this was going to work, so I pulled it apart and put about four dabs of glue on and bonded my brand new tweeters to the stock grille. Below is a pic of the new tweeter glued to the stock grille.Next I needed to fit the new tweeter to the door panel. I pulled out my Dremel tool again and very slightly enlarged the opening on the door panel. The stock hole is a square, so I cut it slightly round for the new tweeter to fit. I just did a little at a time, but it probably would have been easier to use the supplied tweeter cutout template to make the hole. I then attached the tension mount to the back of the tweeter and mounted it to the door panel. The legs on the tension mount were about 1/16" away from grabbing onto the back of the door panel, so I cut two small pieces of self-adhesive weather stripping and stuck them on the back of the panel to give the added thickness needed for the tension mount. At this point I was feeling pretty proud of myself. Everything really went as smoothly as I had hoped, with the biggest hitch being that I needed to add the weather stripping to make the mount work. I went downstairs to put the panel back on the car and when I did I saw that the tweeter pushed out nearly 1/4"! The actual door frame was getting in the way of the tweeter. I didn't take any pictures for a side profile, but my new tweeters weren't possibly more than 1/2" deep. I really didn't think there would be any problems with mounting depth on the tweeters, since I had never read about the problem before. I didn't start this project until it was already dark, so I had to wait until morning to figure out what I would do about the mounting depth issue.When I got back to work, I mounted the door panel without the tweeter to see what was in the way. The problem was some very thick sheetmetal, with a thinner sheet directly behind it. There's a hole in the metal right behind the tweeter, but it isn't large enough so I knew I'd have to cut out some of that metal. I went to the hardward store and bought some more reinforced cut-off wheels for my Dremel (No. 426). I wasn't sure if they could handle the thick metal, but they actually sliced through fairly easily. I ate through three wheels in the process, but it was relatively quick work. Installing the midrange was a piece of cake. I used some XTC speaker baffles with the backs cut out. MB Quart says their components are made to work in a door cavity, not a sealed box, so I didn't want anything enclosing them other than the door. The baffles simply act as a rain shield. That's the whole process. Now I've got my new MB Quart components, utilizing the stock tweeter grilles, and they sound great! Sound DampeningI decided to use B-Quiet Extreme as a sound dampener. It is essentially the exact same thing as Dynamat Xtreme, but much cheaper. The plastic sheeting inside my doors was making a lot of noise with my new speakers, so I decided it was a good idea to get rid of it, besides the fact that all that black goo was really messy from whatever the PO had done inside the doors. Installation is really easy, so long as you work with manageable sized pieces and take your time. It's just a peel and stick dampener so the only tools I used were scissors, a utility knife, a wooden roller, and a screwdriver. Just hold up the pieces to the door panel and cut out the areas where your screws and door panel mounting tabs will go, peel and stick. I used the wooden roller and the round end of the screwdriver to make sure the deadener was attached firmly to the door panel; the roller for the flat portions of the door, and the screwdriver for the curved portions.You can see in the pictures below where I had to enlarge the hole in the door in order to make the tweeter fit. The passenger's side also shows the completed door. I wasn't sure what I would do about the large holes in the door seen in the driver's side, but I opted to just put more matting over them. I left the paper backing material on the sheets in the spots that would potentially touch the window and lock pieces. I didn't want the lock movement catching on the sticky backed sheet, and I wanted the power window module to be easily accesible should I ever need to get to it.I'm definitely happy with the results. Rattles are almost completely gone and the door has a more solid feel and sound to it when closing. The speakers also sound more solid, if that makes any sense. I've also added the B-Quiet to the trunk area. I have a Borla exhaust which has a tendency to drone a bit at certain RPMs when the hardtop is on. I was hoping a layer or two of the sound dampener would cut down on that and I was pleasantly surprised. It's noticeably quieter in the cabin of the car, and I can hear my intake better than I could before. I added one layer of B-Quiet to the entire area under the carpeting, then added a second layer over most of the recessed portion of the trunk. The stuff works just as advertised! No pics at this time.Seat ThumpersAnd here are pics of the seat thumpers with the seat cover removed. People might be interested.