Page 1) HU & Front Speakers
Page 2) Cargo Area, Sub & Amp Rack.
Page 3) Pics of new Equipment waiting for install
Page 4) Door panel tutorial.
Page 5) Sound deadening the door.
Page 6) Fixing Tinsel Lead Slap on the Brahma Mark 1.
Page 7) Construction of Sub enclosure High excursion baffle/grill.
Page 8) Performance Mods
Sound deadening the door.
Let me start by saying this is a very worthwhile part of a proper install. It's relatively cheap although time consuming. It greatly improved my midrange & midbass response as well as killed some annoying buzzes & vibrations from the door. Keep in mind some people have had issues with some of these asphalt deadeners melting in the summer heat. If you park outside alot and/or have a dark car, then you might want to consider a non-asphalt based deadener or Dynamat Extreme.
To start with you need sound deadening material. The big roll is Rammat60, which I highly recommend. The smaller stuff is Protecto Wrap, aka Peel & Seal, Storm Guard, Weather Gaurd, Jiffy Wangin Seal, etc. Generally I like Rammat60 better because it comes in wide rolls and it's thicker. However for car doors - especially the inside portion, I like Peel & Seal because the narrow 6" strip is easier to work with.
First start on the outside panel. Alot of people skip this step, but it's almost as important as the inside panel. I used 1 layer where the cross member was, 3 layers directly behind the speaker and 2 layers everywhere else.
Next I did a layer on the inside of the interior door panel. Make sure you cover up the holes, we don't want the backwave of the speaker coming out of the door. Be careful to leave holes for the mechanisms and wiring as neccessary. I laid 2-3 more layers on this side of the door panel and finally we have the finished product.
A little hint on getting your sounddeadening material to go on nice and flat: Only peel up a few inches of the wax paper back at a time then pat down the Rammat, peel back few more inches, pat down the Rammat; keep repeating until the whole strip is done.
Now to tackle the annoying resonance from the door panel caused by putting a high power midbass in the door. I found this cleared up midrange and midbass response and allowed me to lower my front stage's crossover point. Start with some "high loft polyfil batting" from a craft store. It's only $3-4 dollars per roll, one roll per door panel. You'll break some door panel clips doing this, so get some extras. I got the black clips from www.partsexpress.com, they're much better than the OEM (white) ones.
Next I cut out a hole in the sound deadener. Since my speaker isn't mounted to the sheet metal, there is no reason for the door to be sealed up. This allows the speaker to "breath" into the airspace in the door. If your speaker is mounted to the sheet metal leave the door sealed to avoid cancellation. I put some of the polyfiber batting behind the door mechanisms; no more rattles from the door mechanisms.
Next I laid the polyfil sheets, trimmed to fit the door panel, cut a hole for the speaker. You need to cut access holes for door mechanisms and wiring. You also need to cut holes for the mounting screws otherwise he polyfil will catch on the screws and bind the screw preventing you from getting the screw in all the way. I used some duct tape to keep the polyfil out of the way.