Installation tips and what your Cobra R will look like...
ok here we go...
For all who are wondering, i got everything you see on this page, All the Cobra and Cobra R parts, from GEFracing. A.K.A. Gene Evans Ford out of Atlanta, GA. (Except the Cobra Tails, which i got from Karkraft) When i got everything, it was when FORD had just begun to allow the public to purchase the Cobra R parts. So, at that time Gene Evans did not have the "Cobra R kit" they have now, so it cost me a little more than it would just to get the kit. Anyway, you can find all the 2000 Cobra R parts here: 2000 Cobra R parts page .
. Cobra R hood $475
. Bumper w/ foglights is $299
. Cobra R front splitter $399
. Cobra R rear wing $399
. Cobra R rims and tires $(cost is up to you)
. Cobra R hood $100 (must be shipped freight!)
. Bumper w/ foglights is $ ? i picked mine up
. Cobra R front splitter $ ? came with the hood so i dont know how much it would be by itself, but can be shipped UPS
. Cobra R rear wing $20
. Cobra R rims and tires $80 depends on what you get (weight)
The Infamous 2000 Cobra R Hood
Once you finally order your kit from gefracing your unpacked hood should look similar to these 2 photos. I got mine 2 days after placing the order. It has a gel coat and comes ready to be sanded, primed, and painted. And dont be surprised when you pick up the box and you think there is nothing in side, its there, it weighs 12 lbs lighter than stock and a crap load lighter than your GT/v6 hood!
Coming from FORD you know that this hood is an exact replacement for your stock hood. The bolts line up perfectly and is light enough to install by yourself, although having an extra hand is always nice. Just slide the bolts through, tighten up good, and your on your way!
This is what the underside of the hood looks like, painted of course. The way it looks when you recieve it is white around the sides like the above pictures, and yellow in the center where it looks all fuzy. That fuzy look is the unfinished fiberglass, but it does have the gel coat on it as well. Here is where you can tell the difference between the FORD hood and the Cervini hood. The FORD hood, mine, has all the coils/gills showing underneath the hood and is also unfinsihed, but the Cervini hood does not and has a finished underneath (the red hood)
What the hood looks like up, behind the car
Cobra Front Bumper w/ foglights and Ram Air
Right out of the box this is what your 99-02 Cobra front bumper and foglights will look like. Again ready for all prep work and paint. However what you dont see is the Ram Air.
Maybe you can notice that these arent the original foglights that came with the bumper from FORD. Yeah um... i burnt those up... literally. These foglights are Blazer brand foglights that i retro fitted into the original foglight place, i used the female end of foglight bulbs for a plug as you can see and longer screws and teflon tubes to make use of the foglight clamp and original bezel. parts from ACE hardware.
Here you see what the Ram Air I came up with looks like. You will need 2 dryer vent hoses (3" diameter), some aluminum tape, your air silencer... thought you didnt need it huh? well you do.
And a 3" PVC coupler to attach the vent hose to your silencer.
What the passenger side and drivers side looks like...
If you're still confused see the next picture
This is what the "System" looks like out of your car, notice how i attached the drivers side hose to the main hose. First, so you do not unravel the hose when you cut the connecting hole you must rap it good with the metal tape. Then you are ok to cut the oval need to attach the other hose.
Tape that together and seal up the cracks so its air tight and slide the openings over the 2 extra holes on the foglight bezels, they are a perfect fit. And attach them with 3" metal clamps like so...
How to keep your stock pony and use it!
Ok first off you are going to have to take off the grill from your GT bumper and carefully, CAREFULLY!, take off the running horse by detaching the little round washer-like things that hold it on. CAREFULLY, as to not to break the little tabs on the running horse.... take your time!
Once you have the pony off go to Home Depot or Lowes and get a long flat piece of aluminum, about the width of the pony's torso and about the thickness of a key, so you can bend it easily. From here you will have to look at the grill part and determine for yourself where you want the pony to end up (in the middle, right below the edge of the hood). There are no exact measurements here because you are going to be bending the aluminum in to sort of like a Z or N but at 90 degree angles, you know what i mean, after you trim it to size. then you are going to put the pony up to it to see where you will be drilling the 2 holes for the pony's tabs to go through. Next you are going to put it up to the 2 holes you see inbetween the 2 big circles where your grill was, this is where you are going to be attaching your home made clip. I would recommend using black rustproof phillips head screws. small enough so you can use the stock holes but big enough so it screws itself in tight. And you also might want to paint the aluminum piece black.
More detailed photos for you:
Fairly simply as you can see
but if you dont want to mess with it, i can do it for you for $5 plus shipping
2000 Cobra R Front Splitter
Again here is how the front splitter arrives to you, fresh out of the mold urethane plastic, so you can hit curbs and stuff... NOT! Yes its tough plastic but do not press your luck, pretend that it is glass and stay far far away from curbs, it can get damaged!
Items that come with the splitter are: all the necessary bolts...
Clamps that attach the splitter to the bumper (after you drill the holes in the bumper), yes you have to. rivets for attaching the clamps, however as you can see, i used nuts and bolts, only because i had to take out the rivets because the splitter had to be repainted, and pulling them out left bigger holes. plus now i can take off the clamps and put them back on any time. i got the nuts and bolts from ACE hardware.
Those clamps attach to little S pins that you will have rivet on the bumper from the back
With this picture you can see the 2 nuts that bolt into the fender that you will have to unbolt to take off the bumper, along with some tabs under the hood and a couple of tabs under the bumper (under the radiator) that holds the bottom of the bumper in place.
Here shows you that you will have to trim the fender well plastic to accomodate for the S pin so you can still screw on your bumper to the fender well.
And this little helpful metal plate also comes with the splitter, this is what keeps the back of the splitter from dragging on the ground because of its own weight
Attaching the plate is the hard part, i think. you have to find the exact center of the car and place it up where those c brackets are and drill holes for the brackets, they are rusted because they are not painted, so you might want to paint yours.
Once you have to c brakets bolted on you can slide the plate in and out of them, like the splitter you can remove the plate anytime, this is how it looks holding the splitter up.
This is what the plate will look like when it is on by itself. As you can see i have a few scrapes on the bottom of mine because when i take off the splitter sometimes i forget that the metal plate is still on and i try to go over my first big concrete bump in our drive way, and it reminds me i still have it on with a big loud scrape! It sounds awefully and i cuss very loudly, lol.... but its not a big deal i just go and take it off real quick, its all good!
These 2 photos show what it looks like when the splitter is on, from under the car
WARNING!!! these next photos are not to scare you!!! They are just to show you what will most likely happen, WHICH IS NOTHING!!! If you look at all the otherphotos that show the splitter how you are going to see it on the car, you cant see any damage at all!!! they are just scrathes on the bottom! nothing more!
THIS IS JUST NORMAL WEAR AND TEAR!!!
If you are still freaked just email me and i will calm you down!
Here is photo to help give you an idea as to about how high off the ground the front splitter will be on your car, keep in mind that i have a 1.5" drop on my car, with BBK specific rate springs
2000 Cobra R Rear Wing
Your rear wing comes to you unpainted also and looks grey and very well packaged because it is all fiberglass and is very fragile when off the car. although you should still take good care of it when its on the car too :-P
Items that are included with the wing are the metal end pieces attached by alan screws, gaskets for cushining between surfaces (deck lid and wing supports) bolts...
And most importantly, the extra support for the functional wing that goes inside the trunk. Also once you have installed the wing or even better yet before you install it, you may want to paint the support blocks flat black to match your trunk. As you can see i havnt done that yet but rest assured i will sooner or later.
Yes you will have to drill 2 NEW sets of hole for the different location to make use of the supports. Now dont worry if your holes are not perfect the wing covers up all holes drilled by you. however, there will be a set of holes that will not be covered up, if you have a lot of cash to blow you can get them covered over professional and get your deck lid repainted so it will look like you never had any holes there. Also you might want to paint the support blocks flat black to match your trunk before you install them. I will be doing that also but just havnt had the time yet.
And if you are wondering, yes you will be able to open your trunk all the way without any obstructions.
but if you're like me, which im assuming most of you are, you cant do that. so the next best thing to do is to go to your local parts store and buy a pack of $1.99 plugs and use them, like so. they fit good and snug in the factory drilled holes and are water tight.
this is how the plugs look inside the trunk
Remember, if you are deciding between the Cervini wing and the FORD wing, the Cervini wing is not as wide, not as tall, and thus not as functional. But they do look similar.
Here is a picture showing the difference: The true blue car has the real Ford rear wing, while the red car has the Cervini rear wing...
2000 Cobra R Rims and Tires
The rims and tires come to you with all the bells and whistles! When you buy the "Wheel Deal" (rims tires) before they send them too you they do all the work for you. You get them already mounted and balanced and ready to roll! They also balance them the right way, they static balance them. Which means they put the weights on the inside instead of out on the lip of the rim where it looks tacky. Can you see the weights on the inside of the rims down there?
Look at the depth in the center cap!! Yes there is 3d depth!!! SWEEEEEEEEEEEEETTTT!!!!
Although these rims are 18x9.5's they still do not come out flush with the rear fenders. i have tried to solve that problem by putting 5/8ths of an inch wheels spacers on the back which brings them out to being nearly flush with the fenders. The only negative to that is you have to becareful in tightening and losening the lug nuts. As you can see there isnt a lug nut on that one stud because when i was taking it off it began to strip the nut and bolt, so now FORD will have to replace it.
Cobra Tail Lights
For now you will have to go to www.karkraft.com and search for their .pdf file on installing the cobra tails. I will update this soon
OK trust me, youre going to want to come back and check out page 11 when im done, It is going to have some kick ass photos and movies of my car.
But for now check out the next page for some updated photos!