SPC Performance Camber Kit

Cost: $260 shipped through ebay

Kit Part# 60045

Individual part numbers:
front: 67320
rear: 67090

This is the extreme drop kit which will correct up to 3" drops

Thinking it would be easier to do the rear than the front, i tackled the rear first.

fyi, the front camber kit is much easier to install

Rear installation ET:1 hr each side, start to finish including adjusting using guesstimation

In addition to removing the brake line bracket bolts (12mm) from the wheelwell, you should remove this 10mm bolt which holds the Antilocking break sensor wire. it makes accessing the rear bolt to the arm much easier.

the bolt to the arm is 14mm.

after using the fork to break the ball joint loose from the spindle, you should see this. notice that some grease will come out of the rubber boot. be prepared to use alot of shop towels if you dont want to make a mess.

the nut on the left comes with the rear kit. so does the cotter pin. notice that the factory nut is taller. for this install, you should trash the provided nut and reuse the factory one. that extra length will allow the cotter pin to be used properly. using the provided shorter nut will not allow you to have a safe installation.

another view of the nuts. see the difference.

you can somewhat see the cotter pin bent. you should always bend the cotter pin in a fashion that will keep it from coming lose and falling out.

another point to make is that you should always read the instructions just to make sure you dont forget or miss any important hints. this is all i had to do in order to install the rear arm, but i forgot to read the instructions and tightened the rear bolt before dropping the car. so i had to lift the car back up and take the brake line and anti locking brake wire brackets off. loosen the rear bolt, drop the car and then tighten the rear bolt to spec.

btw, i did this not by installing the tire, but by using a jack stand to sit the car down. then i used my hydraulic jack to lift the rear wheel assembly from the lower control arm, which is ok to do. this simulates that the car is on the ground by jacking up the wheel assembly until the car starts to lift off the floor jacks. i will post pic when i replace my rotors.

Front Installation ET: 20mins each side, start to finish!

Like I stated earlier, the front install is much easier. I was thoroughly surprised since the sun was starting to go down and I hate to work in the dark even though i have good drop lights.

the front wishbone assembly. you only have one nut to worry about. that big one on the top of the pic. notice that i have GC coilovers and Tokico Illuminas already installed!

notice that the assembly is dripping with penetrating oil. it makes things easier in the long run. not much force is necessary when you use the proper tools. Here i am pulling the old cotter pin.

this time notice that the factory and replacement nuts are the same length. i went ahead and used the new nut that came with the front kit.

again, notice that some grease will need to be cleaned when you break the ball joint from the arm. also, see that black wire with the white stripe...pay close attention to it...

that wire is for the front anti locking brake sensor. you can either take off the bolts that hold its bracket to the side of the arm to make some room to work with, or....

you can tuck the arm under tha A arm where u see here, and dont have to worry about ruining that wire...

i know this is blurry but pay attention to where i am pushing the ball joint from. the whole piece is solid metal, so you dont have to push the bolt itself in order to get it popped out. you can barely tell that the penetrating rod from the jaw puller is behind the ball joint bolt.

now that the ball joint is off, see how this fits. when u test it, it doesnt seem to fit. the lower part seems to be wrong, but it isnt. you have to put it together and tighten the top nut. as you torque the nut, the bottom assembly will seat itself properly. then you see this...

what you will notice is that the bottom assembly will pivot from side to side and may need to be adjusted

the previous pic shows that it was pivoted all the way to the left, now it is to the right. you have to make sure it is adjusted like so...

the assembly should be pointing forward so that it slides in to out as it should. if is sliding at an angle, and you will know when you see it, then you have to adjust. just use some channel locks or other large wrench to twist it. it isnt hard, just has to be oriented properly.

make sure to torque that top nut approprietly before putting the tire back on.

after the tire is on and back on the ground. visually ck the camber. if the top of the tire is sticking out too far, you will have to lift the car again and adjust by sliding the assembly in(toward the engine bay) and vice versa.

just make sure to tighten because if it is loose, you will feel and possibly hear it shift on the first 90 degree turn you make.

visually inspecting and adjusting is for short travelling purposes. you should immediately drive to a shop and get this job aligned. it pays to get lifetime alignment, especially if you own coilovers. every time the height is changed, you should get the car realigned. i bought my lifetime alignment from brake check since they are 1.5 miles away. it cost me less than $100. i will get my money's worth with this next alignment done tomorrow...

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