So now that I had gotten all the gear I wanted, it was time to go to work....First thing was to remove all of the Neon's trunk linerI wanted to apply as much deadener to the trunk and the trunk lid as possible. I applied two coats of Cascade Quiet Kote aerosal, which amounted to 4 cans. It was applied in thin coats to the trunk floor and walls to eliminate a little road noise as well as and nasty vibrations or rattles. Plus I added 4 sheets of Brown Bread to the trunk lid to add some weight to it and dampen the rattles and vibrations due to its lightweight design. It sure got rid of a lot of noise from the lid when standing outside the car near the trunk. From there I started to run the wiring throughout my car. RCA's, power & ground wire, speaker wire as well as remote wiring were run through the length of the car. I had to remove the kickpanels, door trim as well as the trim by the rear seats in order to run all the wiring properly on both sides of the vehicle.For power wire, I ran 4 guage Tsunami 900 Series Silver twisted wire from the engine compartment along the drivers side under the trim panel through to the trunk. The remote wire for the amps as well as the bass remote wire for the subwoofer amp were also laid along the drivers side. 900 Series 12 guage twisted speaker wire was run alongside the passenger seats the same as the drivers side from the kickpanels to the trunk. I picked the twisted pair of Stinger Dream Series RCA cables (2 pair), 1 pair for the front rca inputs on the mp3 deck, and another pair for the subwoofer rca input. For the price, their performance is second to none and their shielding protection is superb.Next up was the installation of the sub enclosure. This was the easy part as it was a simple and quick bolt-on procedure.All that was needed was two holes drilled in the side wall and long metal screws (see the two holes in the bottom of the enclosure?)used to bolt the enclosure nice and sturdy to become part of the trunk. Because of its design, it was easy to fit perfectly in the well, and didn't take up barely any room at all. Next was the front stage speakers to be replaced. An older set of Infinity 6 1/2" components were already in the doors with custom made baffle rings to accomodate the large hole in each door. I replaced them with a newer set of Pioneer Premier TS-C603 6 1/2" nickel components, which produce much more cleaner sound and handle a larger amount of power. I used the original baffle rings from the first install, and used the 900 series twisted 12 guage speaker wire to connect the midrange woofers in the front doors to the crossover (in the kickpanels) and then on to the first Rockford 250.2 amplifier that powers the front stage. Each door was also dampened with Dynamat Original to eliminate unnecessary road noise and vibrations from the interior panels. As a result the door panels were much tighter and were more solid when you open and closed the doors.Next up was to build an amp rack for the two Rockford Fosgate Punch 250.2 amplifiers. A rack that would be easy to design and build, and also would not take up tons of space plus be accessible for tuning the system. Another priority was to have plenty of air space to allow the amps to breathe and cool themselves.A Rockford Punch link was also purchased to bolt the two amps together to give the look of one huge amp and saved a little space. The rack was carpeted with matching trunk liner to give it the "factory" look. Plus the amp rack was also raised 3/4" to provide all space for the wiring to run under the amps to give it the stealth and cleaner image. 2 seperate Stinger HPM Platinum fused distrubution blocks for ground and power wire were also included on the rack (4 gauge in, 8 guage out) below the amps to keep all the parts of the wiring close to each amp and keeping the wiring scheme simple and easy to maintain if problems occur. A Phoenix Gold Titanium 1 farad cap (including RF golf plated pass-throughs for each terminal on the cap) was also wired to the RF250.2 amp that gave power to the subwoofer. 4 gauge 900 Series Tsunami ground wire was also used from the fused ground distrubution block to bolt to a grounding point underneath the rear seats. Once the trunk was done, I focused on installing the rear 6x9's on the rear deck in the factory locations. All that was needed was to remove the deck cover, the factory speakers and prep the deck for installation. Two layers of Casade dampening sheets were applied to the bare metal of the rear deck to provide more mid-bass and stop any rattling and vibrating. From there, I installed the Pioneer 6x9's back in the factory locations, replaced the rear deck cover, and nothing to it!!!!! As you can see, the install is pretty clean, and simple. I will have more pics available later of the deck, the engine compartment as well as the door speaker install.