Visit Cone Junkies Forum To talk about Autocross!
FOR SALE! 5000$ obo contact by Email: firstname.lastname@example.org
My name is Ian, i am a 18 year old who enjo... Show moreys car projects. This turbo festiva project is my senior highschool senior project. I am setting it up to be a autocross race car. The project will include a B6T motor swap with the G25r 5 speed transmission. Aiming for 150 hp to the wheels i should be set for autocross. Along with the engine the interiour will be semi-striped so i can install a 6 point roll cage, along with with a OMP race seat and 4 point harnesses. To top it off i am going to install a custom suspenion using mazda 323 KYB gr2 struts, ground control coil overs with 300 in/lb spring rate in the front, and 200 in/lb in the rear. I will also be building my own sway bars if it is possible, and i will upgrade the rear end of the festiva with a rear end from a Mercury Capri XR2 which will include a rear disk brake upgrade some time in the future. I hope you all injoy the pictures and you can see the progress i have made so far.
Pictures of the car *updated 4/22/06*
Ok been a long time since i have updated. I got the car running and every thing is done. Seat is in, engine is FIN, suspension is done in the front and rear. Enjoy!
Here are some pictures from a couple weeks ago
1988 Ford Festiva
B6T 1.6 liter turbo dohc engine swap with g25mr 5 speed transmission swap
Reich Racing ECU
Turbo XS HP MBC
Neukin custom tubular manifold
16G Td05h turbo
Neukin 2.5" down pipe
2.5" side exhaust with no car
Cone filter upgrade
Front mount intercooler (core 21x5x2.5") with 2.25" inetercooler pipes
Greddy type rs blow off valve (painted to match valve cover)
255 liter/hr fuel pump
Power steering pump a/c removed along with pully
Ground Control Coil Overs 300 in/lb spring rate- front 200 in/lb- rear
KYB-GR2 shocks(in need of koni yellow shocks)
Higher durometer sway bar bushings
(other suspension plans in the making)
6 point roll cage with rear strut tower brace
OMP race shell
pyrotech 4 point harness's
Custom short shifter(actually modified shift linkage and didnt just cut the shifter) with "hand me down" shift knob
Autometer phantom series tachometer (3-3/4") and boost gauge
Sony head unit with pioneer speaker
Enkei RS6 15" wheels with 195/50/15 yokohamo avs es100's
Dyno before new turbo and exhaust
Open Down Pipe, First start up with 16g, manifold, and downpipe
Roll from 40-110 mph
Aspire Brake Swap!
Newest addition is in :)
And boom, its in. Took about 7 days of work working about 8-10 hours a day... got to love thanksgiving break :)
Newest addition to the festiva:
16g td05h turbo, neukin header and 2.5" down pipe.
What the Festiva Do.
Old School Festiva Do.
Just some Sexy Pictures woot
Photoshoped on the Enkei RS6's hope to have REAL pix next week
Here you can see my interior with my autometer phantom series 3-3/4" tach and 2-5/8" boost gauge
Optima Red top in the rear
Only one and a half weeks after i got the car on the road it inhaled a peice of sheet metal that dropped into the intercooler pipes when i was cuting for fitment. Left a nice mark on the piston and head. Luckly nothing broke and i had the car on the road again in 3 days :)
So i also kept busy after my FOD (foreign Object Damage) got my interior up to snuff and made a grill along with intercooler protector. I also installed a lindsey racing blow off valve along with a new AFM in atempts to get rid of my miss fire problem.
2- Festiva Engine work
Heres the festiva engine being removed
Trying to understand which aproch to go at this for taking the engine out
3- Mercury Capri Engine removal
Heres the removal that i have done with the B6T motor
Labeling the electrical
Removing axle nuts
Passenger side engine mount
and its out
4- Engine Install progress
Heres the progress of the install of my motor
I used the rear transmissing mount with the G25r transmission because i did not want to have to mess with the rear engine mount. This is not the best method for the engine install mainly cause it pushes the engine pretty far forward.
This is the front transmission mount, as you can see it does not line up at all
And here is the final engine mount, as you can see it is also way off
Here is my meathod for solveing the front trans mount problem
and once more
Here is the engine in test fitment
This is the hole i drilled for the main wire harness. I used a 2.5 inch hole saw
and the harness is in
MY SOLUTION to the passenger side engine mount. Many other people just use a bar and use the stock body mount but since i will be doing autocross, that would not be strong enough.
Here is the body mount i made
And its in. My super welding job :-\
and the engine is in!
This is the FMIC i picked up off of EBAY!!! 21" wide core, 5.5" high, 2.5" thick
Cool ass Valve Cover haha
engine in place again with the cool ass valve cover i painted haha
I picked up a porsche 924 radiator because it fit under the hood lack area. I could not use the traditional Civic SI radiator that is used in many swaps because of the way i have my engine mount set up.
Here it is
11.5*23*1.25... that general size
It has a dual inlet on one side, so i gota cover one of the hoses
The radiator did not fit right in
So I had to cut off the tabs for the bumper skin
Then it went right in, and fitted up PERFECTLY
The bottom mounts fitted perfectly to the frame peice, i used a rubber hose underneath radiator for a shock
Radiator is in and completed :)
As you can see im getting along with the engine
Here is the radiator hose i had to play with to get to fit to the new radiator
This is what i had to do
mounting up the radiator
Here is the driver side hose. It fitted up almost perfectly!
and its in
Mounted the intercooler, looks pretty nice.
Mounted on the bumper frame
You can see how i mounted it. I used two 5 inch bolts through the whole bumper (there is 4 or 5 layers inside) so it is nice and supported.
Close up side shot
5- Suspension work
I purchased Ground Control Coil Overs directly from the company. I had to have them make me this kit because they usually do not have kits made for a Ford Festiva. I got 300 in/lb springs in the front, and 200 in/lb in the rear. I figured since the car was going to be used for autocross it should be pretty stiff.
The taller spring is for the rear and is the 200 in/lb spring
Here you can see the spring on the KYB GR2 Shock
This is a close up of the rear spring
The rear shock, I am using a monroe shock because i had purchased them a while ago before i desided to make the car a race car. I do not think it will be a problem though because i will not mind a little softer rear end.
And both the shocks next to each other
I put the driver side together. I refinished the "a-arm" and painted it black, got new sway bar bushings, new boots, new seals ext. i got it all in, and for fun i lowered it all the way. You can't see how low it really is though because of the angle and because the passenger side isnt lowered down yet. injoy :)
All the struts next to each other
tightening the strut mount
putting the new strut in
front end is DONE.... AND SLAMMED Dont worry im really not going to keep it that low this was just for fun.
There it is, kyb's with ground control coil overs
My car was so low i could not get my jack out when i first lowered it.
front end its pretty low eh?
Slammed. Tire sits about an inch and a half inside the wheel well.
6- Roll Cage
Heres my interour in progress. I have the roll cage in (at 4 points) and i am in the process of installing the last two points on the rear struts. I also have a OMP race seat that i need to get in, along with two sets of 4 point harnesses! I bought this roll cage kit for 300$ shipped from summit racing. (http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=egnsearch.asp&N=115 400606 313157&autoview=sku)
Its a great deal and the cage is very nice
Tack welding the cage into place
welding in angle iron along the side beam because my floor board was rusted through. This should be stong enough if any thing were to happen but im also going to weld in a peice of steel to cover the floor just in case. I put this angle iron in on both passenger and driver side
This is the peice i used for the rear floor mount. I used my torch to cut out a Aprox. 2.5"x4"x3/4 block to try and spread the load of the roll cage.
and its in (at 4 points)
I fitted in the extra door peice i have to the rear strut towers. It happend to be the peice i have fitted perfectly between the struts
After I tacked in the strut tower brace i had fit up the other peices i have so i could connect the roll cage to the tower brace
After i measured the peice i needed, I cut and coped it to fit very nicely
This is the top part that connected to the roll cage it fitted nicely too
After i made sure every thing was set i put it in and tack welded it
I Think it looks nice
And these are my tack welds, not to bad for some one who has been welding since november
Its in! waiting to finish up the welds this sunday!
Here i am copeing the pipe by eye because i am awesome
see... i am awesome
And its finished and all tacked in!
Yeah.. festiva with 6 point roll cage
I finished up the roll cage today 2/11/06. Its all welded in and im going to paint the welded points tomarrow. :)
PAINTED Show Less