BRAKE LINE PROPORTIONING VALVE MODIFICATIONThis modification is not to difficult and is rather inexpensive. The Wilwood Proportioning Valve (Summit also pri... Show morevate lables one) sells for about $40. The fittings and tubing parts were about $15. Be sure to keep cleaning where the brake fluid keeps dripping so you don't remove the paint. Brake fluid will eat the paint off in seconds! Soapy water mix in a spray bottle works great. You will be required to modify your existing brake lines by converting the threaded connection ends to a SAE type end. This is because the Wilwood proportioning valve uses this type of connections. Also the additional length required for the passenger line uses SAE fittings as well.You can rent a SAE Double Flare kit from O'Reilly Auto Parts or some other auto parts store usually at no charge. If you don't know how to use it, have someone their show you how. It really is not hard to do, but it does require some muscles to squize down on that tubing!You will also need to purchase 3 new brake lines. Be sure to purchase only Japaness lines, they will be modified on one end to the SAE fittings.You will be required to modify your existing brake lines by converting the threaded connection ends to a SAE type end. This is because the Wilwood proportioning valve uses this type of connections. Also the additional length required for the passenger line uses SAE fittings as well.You can rent a SAE Double Flare kit from O'Reilly Auto Parts or some other auto parts store usually at no charge. If you don't know how to use it, have someone their show you how. It really is not hard to do, but it does require some muscles to squize down on that tubing!PARTS LIST* Rotary Style Proportioning Valve (Summit, Wilwood, Jegs)* 4 each SAE fittings, 3/16 x 3/16 (O'Reilly part No. 121003)* 1 each coupling to connect two SAE fittings (Sorry, did not have a part number)* 1 each Japaness 3/16 brake line, 18" for the front drivers brake line.* 2 each Japaness 3/16 brake lines, 10" minimum for the front passenger and rear brake lines.* 1 each Double Flaring Kit ( rent from autoparts store at No Charge)* 1 each Tube Bending tool for 3/16" tubing. WILWOOD PROPORTIONING BRAKE ADJUSTMENTSince I drive at the track often, a brake bias adjustment would be beneficial. Brake temperatures have been about 475 F on the fronts and 250 F on the rears. This modification allows more flexibility in proportioning more rear bias for better brake balance. The proportioning valve could have been mounted perhaps in the transmission tunnel and allow cockpit adjustment, but this would require extensive modification. I found that once you find the sweet spot you do not need to modify your adjustment often.DRIVERS SIDE BRAKE LINE REMOVED AND SWAPPEDDrain the brake fluid and disgard. There are several ways you can do this but one way is to loosen one of the brake lines such as the rear line at the master cylinder and put a cup under it. You can also remove the line at the drivers side brake caliper and let it drain from there. Be sure to clean up any drops!!!Because I use a Supercharger, the drivers side brake line has to be modified from its standard position. This line normally comes from the left side (as you are looking at the Master Cylinder). I removed the drivers side line and reshaped a new 18" line, installing it on the right side. This gives additional clearance for the supercharger air intake elbow and also reduces the length for the new passenger side brake line. No modifications of the thread ends required. Use the bending tool for tight bends and your fingers for the larger bends. The tubing bends easily, but be sure not to pinch off the tubing in a turn by bending it to sharp. Look at the factory bends and you can see that you can make a pretty tight radius without pinching the tubing. PASSENGER SIDE BRAKE LINE MODIFIED WITH NEW EXTENSIONRemove the factory proportioning valve. Note that the left side is the REAR line and the right side is the PASSENGER line. The passenger line should be cut off using a good pipe cutter back near the fire wall. This will give you more room to work from and also give you a straighter connection.Use a 3/16" SAE fitting here and flare the end. The part I used from O'Reilly's was a Eldelmann 121003, 3/16 x 3/16. This means it is a 3/16 fitting for a 3/16 tubing. Also you will need a JAPANESS style 10" line to modify. NOTE: There are three types of brake lines, Japaness, British or European and SAE or American. Be sure to buy the Japaness lines only! Next you will need to cutoff the new line end that will attach to the existing line. This line will be modified with a SAE fitting. The other end, the Japaness fitting, will install into the front fitting of the Master Cylinder. Use a coupling to attach the two SAE fittings.DOUBLE FLARING TOOL AND COMPLETED MODIFICATIONThis is the double flaring tool and how it is used. Be sure to debur the end of the tubing before proceding. I used a small screw driver that went into the tubing hole and allowed me to ream the hole out a little.During the flaring steps, be sure that everything is straight when you are going through each step. If the flaring is not perfectly straight, it will not seat properly. Don't gamble on this. Try a sample from one of the lines you removed first so you know what to do the first time on the new line! The Adjustable Proportioning Valve fits nicely on the existing mounting plate that the factory bias adjustment was. use one of the screws to mount it. It is easier initially to keep the unit loose so that you can hand tighten the new lines.The top line, which is the outline line needs the Japaness fitting cut off and a SAE fitting attached. The line from the master cylinder requires several bends. The factory line that was originally used gives you an idea how you might make the bends in the new line. You will cut off one end after you have have the bends complete and attach a SAE fitting.After you complete this installation, double check all of your fittings for tightness. Dry off any brake fluid from around these fittings. When you bleed the brakes, start from the drivers side rear (yes this is the farthest side). After you bleed the brakes, use a paper towel and touch each fitting to see if any brake fluid is leaking. This is critical!!! Don't skip here!!! If you suspect any leakage, try tightening down the fitting and dry off the brake fluid. Test again. If there still shows signs of leakage, replace that line or fitting. There are not expensive and you may do a better job of bending the second time around.Hope this modification helps you in improving your brake performance. It is a lot cheaper than a big brake kit.PLEASE NOTE: THIS MODIFICATION MUST BE DONE RIGHT AS YOUR LIFE DEPENDS ON YOUR BRAKES WORKING!!! DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS IF YOU ARE NOT CONFIDENT IN YOUR ABILITIES. MODIFY AT YOUR OWN RISK.Next page shows some garage items I am trying to sell, need more room. Show Less
