Joined the Darkside, I give up, couldn't resist?! I've bought a used GReddy kit off the MiataTurbo web site. Some of the other hardware I've boug... Show moreht: Starion intercooler to be used with the Jim "B's" IC pipe kit. I've got the Bipes, got all the upgraded bolts/studs/washers. Fabricated a Bowser/FM style SS heat shield. Here it is in it's fabbed stage, not quite complete
BIPE'S Bought it off of Cava Diggy
STARION Is Here!
Also purchased an Ebay blow off valve, and 2 more gages: Boost and Fuel pressure.
OK, here's TD04H.
Black Vortec FPR:
Usually see these in Blue, not black?!
AFM: Going back to the RX7 afm w/ the KNN coffee can filter
Some of the hardware I've assembled for the install:
Socket studs/oil return elbows
Locktite Epoxy for oil pan return
OH Yeah, FM Cam Gears!
I've got to grind this lip away inside the GReddy dump pipe!
Actual install pic's:
Every thing went well. Had the relief cuts in the manifold re-cut. Amazing to see that they closed up again. With the cuts made this reduces the chance that your manifold will crack.
Before you install anything, you have to wrap some of the more vunerable hoses and brake/clutch resevoir to protect them from the high heat the Turbo can produce:
After you done that, you can mount the manifold, had to use a die grinder to open up a couple of the holes to get it to fit on the studs.
Then the Turbo
When I received the Jim B kit, I wasn't crazy about the red paint, didn't go with my theme, Smurf Blue, so I took care of that. Got out my handy Pasche air brush, and went to work. Sanded down the pipes and laid out 1 of 3 coats of Mazda "DU" enamel. Came out pretty good, don't you think?
Here's a pic of the heat shield and the intercooler downpipe installed.
Found the intercooler a lil' tricky to install by myself, could have used an xtra set of hands at this step, not fun to have the intercooler fall down on your glasses....don't ask?!
Also got a new Blue silcone hose kit to try to keep the theme, gotta get rid of that yellow stuff, stay tuned!
Completed kit pic:
Still more shots to come: BOV/Fuel guage/Bipes and a custom AFM relocation thanks to Cava Diggy!
Still have some more items I want to address:
1. Relocation of AFM w/new KNN filter
2. Reinstall front shock tower brace
3. Finish up fuel PSI guage install:- Done
New: Walbro 190 LPH #GSS250 Fuel Pump
OK, so in my never ending quest for more power, you have to make that power safely. As I know that my stock pump was old....17 years old, I knew that it needed to be upgraded to safely supply enough fuel to my 305 CC injectors, and the stock pump wasn't gonna' cut it? It was allready making a lot of noise, so an upgrade was needed. Reading on the Miataturbo forum, it'd seem that the pump of choice was the 190, it was thought that the 255 LPH was overkill and caused ruff idling. 255 is great for mega HP, but I'm not willing to experience all those compromises you'd have to make to run that. All I want is a safe 10PSI that's really streetable. My system is just that.
Before you attempt to do any fuel pump mods, you have to make sure that you have a FIRE EXTINGUISHER handy! Gas fumes are extreamly dangerous, so make sure you have one with you!
First, remove the carpet cargo shelf, that will reveal the the galvanised access panel. Remove those screws. Once you have the fuel pump plate exposed, pull off the wiring harnes clip, you did dissconect the battery, right? Make sure you remove any fuel pressure in the lines before you remove them. You can do this a couple of ways. Unscrew the gas cap, dissconnect the return fuel line under the hood. Make sure you have some rags and golf tee's available to mop up any residiual gas spills, and the tee's so as you can plug the lines. Once you've bled off any pressure, dissconect the two top lines, make sure you don't mix them up? Remove all the screws, and gently break the rubber seal around the plate, make sure you don't tear the gasket, that would be very bad. Carefully remove the plate/seder/fp assembly, it comes out as one unit.
Once you have it out, place it on a rag, it's still gonna' weep gas, make sure you don't bend the fuel level float. Your gonna' be mad if you bugger the float up. Looking at the bottom of the bracket that holds the pump, you'll see a philips head screw, remove it after you un-clip the power wire to the pump. Well, guess what!!!! After 17 years in my tank, with NO corrosion, MY screw was seized! MURPHY's LAW! What ever can go wrong.......of course, I had to strip the screw head, right! See the pic.
After I had the assembly on the bench, stock pump removed, it was obvious thet the bigger pump wasn't gonna fit, and believe it or not, the exit pump pipe was smaller than the stock pump, so no way was it going to seal into the stock funnel receptor? Arg! After srewing around with the new pump, I just deceided to cut the stock funnel off the assenbly, making very sure that no metal filings could go anywhere near, or in, the fuel level sender. Cut the funnel as close to the collar as possible, this way you leave a small lip on the pipe so as to securely capture your fuel hose, much like a stock fuel line. I then took the assembly to my belt sander to smooth out the cut so as it wouldn't cut into the hose with the hose clamp. I also use my air compressor to blow out the lines and make sure there were no metal filings. Here's a pic of the cut off funnel:
After drilling out the screw, I found a metric replacement, I placed the pump in it's holder, measuring how long the fuel line will have to be. NOTE: Since I cut off the factory funnel, the pump isn't mounted as securely as the factory does it! Make sure you cut the fuel line a wee bit longer than necessary, this way, when you do up the bolt/screw on the bottom, you bind the pump. Not quite as good as the factory, but I'm satisfied that it's not going anywhere! Here's a pic of the New Walbro mounted in the factory assembly....
So there you have it. I've no got enough FP to support my quest for 10psi.
Who's ever satisfied with boost, it's like a drug, you allways want more? After a year of driving around with 7 PSI, natch, It's not enough. So with that in mind, I've started the quest for 10 psi!!!! I've started to assemble all the support equipment I'll need to attain that. First up, Greddy E-Manage Blue! My good buddy Cavadiggy, will clone his set up from his blue to mine, he's running 10 psi allready. I will be looking for RX7 injectors or possibly 1.8 injectors, I'll have to see what pop's up?
In the mean time, here's a pic of the Hallman installed. I picked the purple to match the FM cam gears, nice match Eh!
ACT Clutch install!
Man, this was the biggest job I've done on this car. Really a "dirty" job! 16 years of dirt and grime! At least 12 years of leaking CAS "O" ring leak can really make a mess of everything! And did I mention how incredibly tight most of these bolts were! To say nothing of the corrosion/seized bolts that had taken place. Two of the nuts had to "air chiseled" off! I did the install by myself. Would have been nice to have a set of xtra hands available.
Here's a pic of the actual install:
Results are fanstastic! I only wish when I was NA I had done this mod sooner, there's no need to be driving around with a marginal clutch, and the GReddy just finished it off! Typical ACT close engagement at the floor, will have to see if I can adjust it up a bit higher. I had no idea just how much performance I was loosing with my old tired clutch,now I really feel some "Zoom-Zoom"!LOL!
EBay special BOV: Cheap functional, not too loud, can hear it when it vents, for $38 I'm happy!
Older Pic's! 7-25-03 JR COLD AIR!
NEWEST VERSION! (Sold) This JR CA features the "Rotomolded" induction tube, this replaces the alluminum elbo that was used on the earlier kits. This is a great mod, really cleans up the engine bay, feeds the engine with nice cold air. Ram air feature is touted to add upwards of 14 hp. with full exhaust system! I don't know if this is true, what I can tell you though, is that it's quiter than sucking air than through the "coffe can" KNN air filter? Also while I was in there I decided to replace the upper hose with a Blu' silcone hose from Moss.
Previous engine mods are here:
The biggest mod is the BSP/Brospeed ceramic header that I installed. Here you can see for comparison the stock Vs/ BSP unit. One of the important things I noticed how much 'lighter' the BSP unit is!
Heres an installed shot.
I also know from reading on Randy's site 'SOLOMiata' that a Mazda RX-7 AFM is good for another 5 hp on top end, so heres a shot of mine after I just finished polishing up the case.
Here it is installed with a custom 'delrin' plastic adaptor for the KNN.
Just another small 'dress-up' item, Moss polished oil cap! I'd like to attempt over the winter to polish the valve cover.
This works well with the KNN filter.
To finish I installed new NGK Blu' wires with Bosch 4 plugs. Also did the 14* ign. bunp. Show Less