Replaced the freeze plugs last year and had the car apart until now. When I assembled everything back something on this linkage doesnt jive. I didnt rem... Show moreove linkage from vehicle. The rubber bushing on firewall was bad so it was replaced. When depressing the pedal now there is not enough travel to completely open carbs. It is like the short tierod needs to be adjusted out much longer than can happen. I am not completely sure I have this connected right. Need to check with another Healey.
For about the last ten years I have been making excuses for not getting the cob webs blown out and driving my Healey on occasion. Each year at the family Chr... Show moreistmas gathering, my uncle asks me about it. He has owned a few in his day and has never even seen mine. I keep telling him, just needs the registration and its on the road again. Just cant wait to get on the road again.(melody) Maybe next year. So, last year I finally got motivated to follow thru and get it road worthy. So goes the story and I am sticking with it. Unfortunately I let it sit up too long without draining the old gas out. Fuel stabilizer does not work much past a couple of years. So the tank comes out and see the dark color of what was once fuel in much larger quantity, foul smell and full of chunks settled from dried gas varnish. Normally it has been accustomed to drinking AV gas to avoid such displeasure. I drained out the sludge, washed it best I could and mixed some phosphoric acid. Let it sit a few days, flushed and let dry. Most of the accumulated layer of dead varnish flaked off and left a bunch of cruddy chunks needing to be vacuumed out. Good enough for now I think. Replaced and filled it up. Flushed out the fuel lines to carbs and ready to fire up hopefully. Next problem occurred when the overflow lines started dumping out fuel out non stop when key was on. Front carb had fuel dumping out of float chamber around the jet assembly. I was surprised the fuel pump didnt fail to perform admirably. Since it was still completely original with diaphragm never even been replaced. After pulling the front carb off and knowing what I expected to see was indeed true, chose to just throw in the towel. The diaphragm or gasket, whatever its actually is on the main jet assembly was dried out, and crumbled to nothing. These were new replacements in 1995, but this great Obamagas is not like scotch or bourbon that gets better with age. The bowls in carbs had plenty of varnish in bottom, causing the floats to stick and clogging any orifices that metered fuel.
Fast forward to last week. I knew what parts were needed to correct the issues, so ordered everything before even bothering to tear everything down or other with anything else. I ordered new jet assemblies, needle and seats for floats, diaphragm for fuel pump and necessary gaskets. When tank was removed last year, I also noticed another benefit of this great gas we have the privilege to use. The fuel sending unit was just about completely disintegrated from too much alcohol consumption. What was is now just a pile of white powder. That was also on my parts list, but got back ordered. So when most of the parts arrived, I removed the other carb, cleaned everything out with plenty of lacquer thinner, replaced bad parts, readjusted and assembled. This was completely uneventful and everything went back together just fine. I also went thru the fuel pump, and glad I did. It was totally full of crusty sludge, if you can have both at the same time. I scrubbed and cleaned for a while. The old original diaphragm was not holding up so well. The outer Mylar layer was just about non-existent and rubber was turning to powder. BUT, the rest of pump was near perfect, in a British sort of way. I screwed the new diaphragm back in, adjusted accordingly then bolted all together. My first big relief was when I turned the key to cycle the fuel pump in question. I had a line dropped in gas can with fresh fuel to feed pump until the gas tank got cleaned out better this time. The pump came to life with its heart beating faster than someone overdosing on cocaine, picking up fresh gas and pushing the old out of line running up to the engine bay. After all of the air bubbles passed and fresh gas was flowing, I pinched off the fuel line and pump went thump-thump, then stopped. Bolted everything back together and ready to fire this beast up. Motor cranked over quite a while without even a pop. OK, most likey no fire, since the fuel issues are resolved. Pull cap and notice no spark across points when cranking. Pull plugs and no fire. First the simple light sanding with 1200 grit paper. Still nothing. Check voltage, connections blah blah blah, no difference. Start troubleshooting per the original workshop manual and nadda. Swap coil, change points, still nothing. No condenser to swap, so I am dead in the water for the moment.The manual gave diagnostics to verify if condenser was bad, but nothing made any difference. Now I pull out distributor and want to know why I am not getting any of the readings per the manual for diagnosing. Since distributor is out, I tear it down and clean to make sure advance is working. I noticed on the top points plate, one of the little nylon nubbins, for lack of a better description, is missing. The top plate swivels around for advancing the timing and plate is spaced up and rests on the two nylon nubs. So i chucked a piece of nylon in lathe, then machined one that matched the other. It fits in small hole thats been recessed on one side. Then you melt it to spread out so it is retained. After this is all finished, I remembered buying a Pertronix electronic module back when they first came out for positive ground stuff. So I parked all of the old points, condenser issues and installed it. But, when still troubleshooting the problem earlier, I managed to not seat the rotor down completely in distributor and broke it. Arrgh! On Saturday nite, most parts stores dont carry replacements. OUT with the epoxy and glue this beast back together. I used a small c-clamp to keep it snugged up while curing overnite. OK, fast track to Sunday nite. I install distributor, finagle the wires according to instructions, and everything seems to be in order.......I hope. The car was regularly driven thru 2002, parked and shortly again in 2006, with not very pleasent smelling gas. That should have been an obvious "heres your sign" moment. But alas, I will get to it next week. It sat again from 2006 until last year, still waiting for that next week job to get done. So now I am trying again to start it up. With the Pertronix module it now boasts a spark, any British car owner would be envious of. Well to cut to the current. I pulled the choke, since it always seemed to like a lot for starting in the past. Then turned the key and it fired right up, like it had been running all this time. So now its running and I am one step closer to driving it again. I readjusted the carbs to initial settings, so anyone have a semi-reliable fast track to tuning them??????????????? In the past I could never get these to really idle down much under 900 rpm, and always seemed a little sluggish on acceleration. I vowed the next time carbs were off I would resolve these issues if at all possible.
Continuning on...Since the fuel sending unit was on backorder, I decided to see if the old one was even salvagable. Originally it appeared to be eaten up from the alcohol in modern gas. I should have taken a before pic. The best description I can visualize it it looked just like a bright white corral reef from the amount of white growth all over the unit. I expected to see it completely eaten up after cleaning. The float is made of steel and was covered with rusty varnish pustules. With nothing to loose but spare time, I decided to sand blast, sorry that would be glass beads, not sand, to find out how bad it really was. VERY BIG SURPRISE! It actually cleaned up very well. The surface exposed to the old gas was textured, but almost no real loss of metal. It is just as good now as was before the long time sitting as gas went south. Now the float was a little different story. It was still full of old gas, from 2006 and earlier, and has been sitting out of tank for a year now. It wasnt leaking at all, but decided to blast it as is. As it was being hit with media, the old gas started trickling out. I know, not a smart thing to sand blast gasoline. I washed out the remaining old gas and finished blasting to see how bad it was. The float is pelted full of rusty pin holes that had varnished over. My first thought was to solder over the whole float, but I dont have great success with getting it to flow very well on porous steel. Then considered mixing the infamous JB Weld up and smear a layer over the float and cover over with a piece of foil. After washing off the remenants of media, I used a heat gun to dry it off. Then the solder started dripping off float, so I came up with a better idea. I grabbed a stock Ford float thats been manufactured since 1953 and the last time I looked still had the old part number from back then. It fits just about every Ford thru the 90's. Anyway I chucked it up in a lathe and drilled a 0.079" hole in both ends. Then slid it over the existing float arm. Soldered both ends up and now works just like the original was supposed to.
The old float blasted clean. All of the dark specs are pin holes.
I removed the top cover and was relieved to see the coil had not bee affected at all or showed any signs of damage. It also ohmed out thru the full swing of arm. So now its back together and ready to install in tank when finished being cleaned out.