Been over a year since I have done an update here, main reason for that is cause no one visits this site like they used to and I am in the process of startin... Show moreg up my own website for atleast this vehicle here to document its history and restoration.
Now with that said this update I will probably forget quite a bit that have been done due to the length of time between posts. But for the most part I have found out that the car has zero power if you floor it this is due to the fact that the initial timing is set at 0*. This was done because the newer style 2v intake manifold and late model '72 Autolite 2150 carb will not operate the orignal Holley Load-O-matic distributor properly. So I am in the process of obtaining all the parts to reinstall the orignal intake and Holley 4000 carb I have that orignally came off this car. Now I have purchased a Holley 4000 rebuild kit with new brass float, I obtained from the nice people at Y-blocks forever not just the brass elbow for screwing into the back of the carb for use with hooking one vacuum advance line for the distributor as well as for providing a hook up point for the vacuum operated windshield wipers. I also obtained an orignal mesh filter with spring to replace the one that is missing on this carburetor. I also obtained the vacuum hardlines for the vacuum advance, the choke tube set, a new thermostation housing with proper ECE markings and a few other parts I am not remembering off the top of my head.
The only things left for me to purchase to reinstall the orignal intake and carb so I can set timing to where it needs to be is I want to replace the orignal distributor with a reman unit as this one as far as I can tell is the orignal one to the car and I just cant find the parts to rebuild this one myself which I would rather do. I also need to purchase an reman dual reservior vacuum advance which will set me back easily $250 as I do not have a core to send in since the repair shop that did this years ago swapped to a single can vacuum advance unit. I also need to get a set of manifold gaskets but that can be purchased locally. I also need to locate the site I found that had the fuel line and vacuum line set for the double action fuel pump as I want to junk the hardlines I made from scratch to work with this carburetor. I thought the car would be driveable like this but I wouldnt want to drive it with the lack of power it has and the fact that it did backfire through the carb once and died when I pressed the throttle to the floor on a stand still. But once I obtain these last two parts I can start cleaning the orignal manifold installing the choke tubes, painting it and rebuilding the carb with the hopes of getting the car to run like it was ment to.
Another thing Ive done since the last update besides replacing the last 40 yo tire on the car I had a problem with the transmission leaking fluid after sitting a few days everyone told me this is either the tailshaft seal, pan, or the selector shaft seal leaking. No one believed me it was the yoke itself leaking. I found a company by the name of Shoebox Central which sold the slip yoke at a very fair price. Sure its not idential to the orignal but what can one do. I thought of repairing my orignal one as I thought the plug on the back of the yoke had a rust hole in it, it did not the whole plug was missing and couldnt find any plug the proper size to replace it. So I purchased the new slip yoke and installed new U joints front and rear while I was there, they didnt feel bad but since I had the tool out removing the front u joints I figured I might as well replace it while I am here. I also installed the dust cover boot on the tail shaft of the transmission that I bought as well. That was done nearly 2 months ago and no more leaking. I did have to add an extra quart of transmission fluid the second time I checked it but figure that could be the air getting out of the system. I didnt see no wetness on the bottom of the transmission nor on the ground so it cant be leaking and theres nothing hooked to the engine that would result in a leakage into the intake of the engine like on newer automatic transmissions.
I also went and purchased a pair of reproduction fender skirts, which I primered in white primer which is correct procedure for the color the car is painted. I also bought from Automotive Touchup a can of Diamond Blue spray paint and a can of their clear coat.
As far as photos goes, I would upload them but the site is so horrible now it wont even allow me to upload photos so once I get to the point that I get my own site up and running or find another place that is like this place was 10 years ago I will do a update post with a link to the page. Not that anyone will know cause it seems I havent had a single view in the year and a half I havent been on here.
This update will bring everything current. As of today everything that has been done is listed below.
1) Brakes finished - Now she moves and stops under he... Show morer own power.
2) Radiator recored - I was going to purchace a new radiator from Tee-Bird Inc. But they were currently out of stock of radiators without the transmission coolers. They told me they could plug the cooler and you really wouldnt see it. That doesnt work for me because I know that it is there and considering these cars did not come with a fan shrould it means you can easily see them if you are viewing the engine compartment from the side. So I used a local radiator shop who by the way used to build custom radiators for A.J. Foyt back in the day, they took my orignal radiator apart and sent the core off to Dallas to be copied so I could have a 99% exact copy of the orignal. This beats me waiting till early June when more would be back in stock and the cost of $495 was cheaper than the $475 before the $40 s&h from Tee-Bird Inc.
3) Speaker, Speaker Harness, Antenna - I replaced the orignal speaker and speaker harness as the harness was soldered to the speaker. The Antenna was missing so I installed a reproduction one with the correct ring groove around the base of the mast. So far the radio still does not operate but two of the tubes that are not blackened by heat and age does light up and glow so I know there is power to the radio and as per the shop manual the vibrator is not making a buzzing sound so I have a solid state buzzer on order from Tee-Bird Inc to see if that gets the radio working again. If not then I will remove the radio to have it gone through and have the paper capacitors replaced.
4) Oil Bath Service Decal - My Decal finally came out of back order and I placed the order again from Dennis-Carpenter and now I have it fixed to the Oil Bath air cleaner.
5) Vacuum hard lines - I fabricated up some custom hardlines from bulk straight hard lines bought from Advance. Since I am running a later Autolite 2100 carb on a early '60s 2bbl intake at the moment I did no want to purchase a reproduction line set. I will how ever after I blast my orignal 4bbl intake and rebuild my orignal Holley 4000 carb for this car.
6) Radiator cap - Purchased from Concours Parts a exact reproduction of the orignal 13# radiator cap.
7) Motor mounts - I also have a transmission mount and the rubber isolators for the steady rest mount. The transmission mount and the steady rest mount isolators have not been installed yet.
Below are a few pictures showing the current state of how the engine bay looks as well as an external shot showing the antenna installed.
The following is what is next on my list in attempt to get the car back on the road by July 2015
1) Three new tires
2) Heater Core
3) Heater Hoses
4) Heater Control Valve - Used to send vacuum to the hot water valve in intake manifold
5) Vacuum wiper motor
6) Wiper blade refills
7) Reproduction master cylinder cap
Used Eastwood's Brake Gray for painting my new Mastery Cylinder and the four wheel cylinders I received. Doing so I found out the one wheel cylinder box I d... Show moreid not open out of the four was the front left one and it was incorrect, it was for a '58 and up that has the large ear that uses a large bolt to mount the wheel cylinder to the spindle through the backing plate. Just like on a '63 Chevrolet, but I now have to wait till Monday to find out what Larry's Thunderbirds will do about this as the box has a piece of paper taped to it that has the correct P-2062-A number as on their website which indicates they mis labeled the box or the box is correct but the wrong part was installed in the box.
Either way I did not get to start on my brakes today like I had wanted to because I did not want the car to sit a week or two half done. So I will have to wait and see when they will get me a replacement for the one I have and hope they do not require I send the one I purchased back at my expense. If so I will demand that they send me the $44 master cylinder cap I was looking a for free then cause I refuse to pay to send a part back that was incorrect on their part.
1) I went ahead and ordered two front and two rear wheel cyliders and two brass crush washers for the master cylinder from Larry's Thunderbird & Mustang Part... Show mores. I ordered a master cylinder, two front brake hoses, and one rear brake hose from MAC's. I will be ordering a concourse quality reproduction metal master cylinder cap from Larry's later on as they want $44 for it and I was already pushing $250 on what I did order.
2) Added four quarts of Type A transmission fluid to bring the fluid level to the full mark. Trasmission engages into reverse and drive fine. Will attempt to move vehicle under own power after brakes have been done.
3) I ordered a can of Brake Gray paint from Eastwood to paint the master cylinder and the wheel cylinders to prevent rust.
4) Still havent bead blasted the oil bath filter, probably wont do it any time soon as my left index finger ended up getting crushed between the front left cab mount and core support of a F350 truck that we were putting the cab back on.