I had a radiator custom made for the car, I did this so I could position it further forward than the original one does, this gave me additional space for the... Show more electric cooling fan. I wanted to avoid the black perforated strapping that is supplied as mounting brackets. When the radiator was made I had brackets attached that would allow me to mount a fan shroud to the sides of the core. I was able to use these as mounting tabs for the vertical brackets for the fan. I used some angle pieces for the top supports and strap for the lower ones. Once I had everything cut and filed so they fit nicely, I took it all to a local shop and had it welded together. I was able to attach the overflow tank to the side mounting tabs. The smaller tank on the left in the one photo is for windshield washer fluid. I used the Spal control unit to operate the fan, it ties into the temp sender for the EFI system. I�ve set the unit to turn the fan on at 50% speed at 160 and full speed at 190. It is visible just below the washer fluid tank in one of the photos.
I made a new support for the EFI control unit, the relays, fuse block, and other parts on the top are for the EFI, power windows, and for the keyless entry kits I have installed. In one photo you can two studs sticking out, these extend thru the firewall to support one end, the strap on the other side attaches to the lower bolt of the right side wiper pivot.
Here are a few photos of my Keith Craft 331 stroker. I have installed a MassFlo EFI kit on it and I am very pleased with it. It is nice to be able to get in the car and have it start up without a hiccup after sitting for weeks. I worked hard to hide the wire harness as mush as possible. The harness for the EFI kit was taken apart and I separated it into several smaller runs to make it easier to hide. I covered these with a fabric like heat shrink sleeve that worked out really well. The feeds to the starter and battery were run out thru the inner fender just below the left side hood hinge. I didn�t want to have heater hoses flopping around, so I figured out a better way. The intake I use has a rear water port, so I was able to eliminate one hose quickly. The other hose comes off the water pump, I used a section of molded heater hose to line this on up with the right side fuel rail. I used a 5/8 diameter piece of stainless steel tubing that I ran alongside the fuel rail. At the end of the rail I used another piece of formed hose to connect thru the firewall to the heater core. It came out very clean and I�ve never had a problem or a leak from it.
Here is my helper in training, he's checking for loose parts after all the off road driving he does.
Here are the details of my stroker,
5.0 roller block
MassFlo EFI system
Comp Cams XE274HR
March Pulleys and Alternator Bracket
Flow Cooler Water Pump
Tri-Y Jet Coated Headers
Cobra Aluminum Oil Pan
Custom made aluminum radiator
Spal electric cooling fan with thermostatic control
Magna Flow 2 1/2 Stainless Steel Exhaust System
Modified C4 Transmission
Edge torque convertor
Currie Built 3.55 Trac Loc Rear Show Less
Here is what the front end looked before the reassembly started. The fenders, hood, doors, and trunk lid were painted off the car then bolted in place. We in... Show morestalled the suspension and drive train before the body was reassembled. No point in leaning over the newly painted fenders when it could be done with nothing in the way.
I applied Quiet Car to the interior floors and wheels wells of my Mustang. Using their spray gun it was both fast and easy to apply. I have about four coats of it on the floors, and when I tap on the floors, they sound like they are about a foot thick. All in all I am very happy with the results. Show Less
Here are some photos of the brackets, spacers, and parts needed to install the Electric-Life power windows and remote lock kits in my car. I chose to use the... Show more Hotronic switch for the windows since once installed it can't be seen and the window crank stays in place. I chose the remote door locks for the same reason, no visible buttons.
OK, here is the Hotronic switch, I chose the long shaft version, this too proved to become a minor problem. The shaft was so long once installed the handle would have had more than a 1/2" gap between the handle and the door panel. I have a friend who made me some spacers, these are 5/8" thick, there are holes that match up to the shaft and mounting screws. I had him make a circular raised area that corresponds to the hole in the interior of the door where the switch mounts. The distance between the screw holes are just slightly large that of the hole in the door, tricky getting the holes drilled correctly.
Here is the spacer atop the switch, and what the assembly looks like once mounted to the door.
The Electric Life windows are two wire motors, a total of 6 wires attach to the switches. They had to be connected once the switch was inside the door, but before it was mounted in place. I tested the switch and motors off the car in order to make sure I connected the wires correctly and the switch would function that way it should.
Here are photos of the door lock parts, the bracket attaches to the door shell with 2 phillips screws. The large hole visible in the lower corner of the bracket is for one of the door panel mounting fasteners. There were two dimples in the shell of the door, I used these drilled thru as mounting points. I measured and there were in exactly the location on both doors in relation to other parts. This meant I could make one bracket and reverse it for the other door, the same for the rod that would pull on the lock rod in the door. I mocked up the lock rod with small sections of coat hanger wire until I was sure it would work properly. The overall length of the lock rods is just over 2", the small bracket that secures the actuator rod to the door lock rod has two very small set screws to hold everything tight. What a pain to reach and tighten, even when using a mirror it was very hard to reach and see. I was able to make the rod bend in such a way that these screws were facing the front of the car, this made them a little more accessible.
I just added a photo of the template I made for the door lock actuator brackets. I labeled the needed holes and provided the dimensions. The door panel mounting clip hole is not drilled thru, best to do that after you make yours and mount it in the door. You can then make the location exactly where this hole is located in your door shell.
I have courtesy light in my door and found that I was able to use the existing hole diameter and grommets for the courtesy light for all of the new wires. The door actuators have 5 wires, these are a small gauge and I removed the sleeve that came on the harness. It was flat like a ribbon and made from a reasonably thick rubber which would have taken up a lot of space. The windows required four wires at the switch, I made a harness that split once inside the door, this reduced the total number of wires into the door to 9. I decided to add a Molex gang plug disconnect inside the car, should I ever need to remove to work on the harness or switches. Here is a photo of the harness connection between the body and the door, I used the grommets that were on the original courtesy light harness and the covering is a fabric heat shrink sleeve.
I found that I needed to install the door lock parts first, tested them with the harness passing thru openings in the door shell. Once everything worked correctly, I installed the harness and secured it in place. The window switch was next and the window motor assembly was last. Show Less